Rip currents – How to spot, escape and take advantage of one of surfing's greatest dangers

Quick rip current facts:

• The rips are generally very strong, which makes it almost impossible to swim back to shore against them. 

• They are not uncommon; you will most likely see them at all surfable beaches. 

• They are commonly formed near structures and at sandbar breaks. 

• You are more likely to spot a rip current if the waves crash into the beach perpendicularly than if the waves come in at an angle.

How rip currents look like:

A big reason why rip currents are so dangerous is that they are difficult to spot for an untrained eye. The sign can be difficult to see since it can be very subtle. It's a good idea to look for the rips from above, so try to look down at the ocean from higher ground (from a cliff, for example). Here are two clues you should look for in the water that hint that a rip current may be present: 

• Gaps between waves: See if there is a path of calmer water that is breaking the pattern of the incoming waves and whitewater. This section is most likely a rip current. 

• If the color of the water looks different: if the water close to the shore looks notably different, that might be a sign of a rip current. These currents tend to bring sediment and sand with them and are deeper than the surrounding water.

Note: the currents can change fast, so keep in mind that these clues don't have to be visible for a current to be present.

Not all rip currents cause danger; some currents are slow and weak. But if the wave period or the height of the wave increases, so will likely the strength of the rip. The strength of the rip current will also be affected by the conditions of the beach, waves and tides. The current is strongest at the water's surface and decreases in strength as it gets deeper. So if you get caught in a rip, at least you don't have to worry about getting pulled down underwater.

Generally speaking, rip currents are considered to be dangerous and should be taken seriously. But why are these currents considered to be dangerous? Here are a few reasons:

• The rip current can quickly pull you away from the beach and out towards the ocean.

• Even the best surfers and strongest swimmers will have great difficulty swimming against a strong rip current. 

• The speed of the currents isn't always the same; they can quickly become stronger and therefore be even more dangerous for the person who's stuck in the current. 

• In the U.S,. the highest numbers of rescues by the surf beach lifeguards are caused by rip currents, and over a hundred people in the U.S. alone die every year due to these strong currents.*

You are, however, safer as a surfer when you get caught in a rip current than you would be as a swimmer. Why? Because you have your surfboard with you. Panic and exhaustion can lead to great dangers for swimmers, but surfers can use their boards to rest on. 

*According to a paper regarding rescues and drowning in association with rip currents provided to the USLA, United States Lifesaving Association.

Get out safe while surfing: How do you escape from a rip current? 

The most important piece of information to take away from this post is how to escape the rip current if you get caught in one. You should never paddle against the current when you get stuck (remember what we just said about Olympic swimmers!), you will most likely not get anywhere and it will cause panic and exhaustion. 

There are two ways to exit a rip current: 

1. Paddle parallel to the beach: the current might be strong and continue for a long distance, but the current is usually quite narrow to the sides. So that’s where you should make your escape! If you paddle across the current, you'll get back to safety in the white water without too much effort. 

2. Lie down on your board and let the current pull you out: eventually, the current will get weaker and then you can swim out of it to the side and make your way back to the shore. However, this option is scarier and should only be a last resort. 

Wave your arms and call for help if you don't feel like you're in control. Safety should always come first and you’ll have both your surf instructor and beach lifeguards to call for help. Just remember to stay calm and take deep breaths; panicking will make the situation worse. The rip currents may pull you out at sea, but they will not drag you under the surface. 

Safety tips: 11 things to remember 

Rip currents can be both dangerous and a valuable tool for saving energy when used correctly. Now that we know some basics about safety regarding rip currents, here are some final notes to wrap it up:

• Always check that the beach is safe to surf at and have a look at which beach warning flag is hoisted.

• Only surf when there are lifeguards present. 

• Check if there are signs of rip currents, but always assume that they are present. 

• Be confident in your ability to swim.

• Stay calm!

• If you feel like you're losing control – call your surf instructor or lifeguard for help!

• Never swim against the rip current if you are caught in it. 

• To exit a rip current, either paddle parallel to the beach or lie down on your board and let the current pull you out until it becomes weak and you can paddle back to shore.

• If you see that someone is caught in a rip current, call for help! Inform the lifeguard or call the emergency number. If possible, throw something that floats to the victim of the current to help them. 

• Surf together with a buddy or a surf instructor. 

• If the conditions are too hard for you, stay at the beach!